By Karen Cooper
Porto Cervo, Sardinia -- While an emerald sea, white-sand beaches and a
life of luxury may sound like something out of a daydream, one can discover
all this and more just off the west coast of Italy. Situated along the coast
of the largely untamed island of Sardinia is Porto Cervo, a village of incomparable
beauty and spirit. As a place where the jet-set come to race, relax and socialize,
Porto Cervo is one of the most well-known nucleuses of pure luxe living.
Located on the northeastern side, on the beautiful Costa Smeralda (Emerald Coast),
the village of Porto Cervo is clustered around several marinas and the setting is
absolutely breathtaking. The brick and tiled patio of the main piazza, the wicker
chairs that surround the café tables, and the view of the sea all combine to give
Porto Cervo the European charm of a secluded seaside resort. The coral
shades of pink and orange, when matched up against a blue sky remind one of paradise.
Bordering the piazzas are boutiques and open passageways framed with romantic arches.
Flowers in bloom surround the bistros where one can dine or have a coffee under a
bamboo-covered awning with a spectacular view of the harbour.
On the other side of the harbour is the Yacht Club Costa Smeralda and an adjacent
marina. After its founding in 1967, the Yacht Club helped fuel the social boom
that took place in Porto Cervo in the 1970’s. The village was easy to access by
sea and it became the “in” place to be if you were socially prominent. Since then,
there have been many changes to the village and the Yacht Club, but the appeal of
the town has remained much the same. Some come for business, or for vacation, and
some come to sail or race, and relax on their yachts.
The week of the annual Maxi Yacht Rolex Cup, the docks are bustling with activity
and the harbour is packed with some of the world’s largest, fastest and most
luxurious sailboats in the world. On race days, the crews ready the racing gear and
their matching uniforms clearly distinguish one competing team from another. The breeze is
warm and steady, hopefully with no threat of rain. The tall masts of the sailboats
reflect the sun as it breaks through the foreboding clouds. The official event battleflags
are hoisted on the headstay of each participating yacht, adding color to the scene and
singling out the participants.
If one takes a boat out of the marina one will find the rocky, barely inhabited
coastline reminiscent of shores one should prowl in a pirate ship. As the view
from sea provides a different vantage point for any spectator, one can see parts
of the land that could be otherwise missed.
Several lighthouses dot the nearly deserted areas of coastline while beautiful
oceanfront villas and restaurants can be found along the more populated areas of
the island. A boat tour should never be dismissed as Porto Cervo must be seen from
both perspectives, by sea and by land, in order to completely reveal itself as one
of the most fascinating venues in the world.
After exploring at sea, one can continue with an expedition ashore by following the many
pathways down to the water, where it is possible to stroll among the shops and where there
is a small boardwalk and beach, just below “La Piazza”. On a nice day the waters are a calm,
emerald green, perfect for swimming in the summer months – refreshing, yet far from cold.
The bay itself is surrounded by pale orange rocks with cacti, ice plant and varying brush
that make the coastline green and lush. If one continues the walkways cross a bridge and
go into other secluded areas that eventually open out onto the marina and the former site
of the Yacht Club.
One can better explore the surrounding area outside of the village by renting a scooter or
an all-terrain vehicle (ATV). Renting a small vehicle is a great way to travel the local
roads and to see many of the sites that are beyond walking distance. Renting an ATV
is a great way to travel the local roads. At Via Capo Ferro there is a small beach along the
bay where one can swim and watch the day’s races. The water changes color with the moving
clouds, from the brightest of Caribbean teals to the purest of blues in the blink on an eye.
Down the street in another direction there are dirt roads, which is where the ATV can be much
more useful than a scooter. At the end of these roads one can find cliffs spotted with yellow
moss that drop down to reveal the brilliance of the water seen from above. At that height the
silence and the distant white caps and boats make for an amazing 180-degree ocean view that
one can enjoy in total peace.
Sardinia boasts over 490,000 hectares of pure nature, thus environmental beauty is not hard to
find. But even the developed parts of the island in and around Porto Cervo only contribute to the
overall magnificence of the island. The hillside villas are collections of pillars, arches
and windows, all with tiled roofs. Most are shades of pink and yellow, though there is the
occasional blue or even natural stone.
The village of Porto Cervo lives for tourists, and while there are just over 2,000 local
inhabitants, the population soars at peak times during the summer. It is only during July and
August that the village opens up its discos and nightclubs, keeping the city alive all through
the night.
If one chooses to travel to Porto Cervo during the more quiet months, one can still find late
night action at some local restaurants and bars. One of the best-known after-hours spots in the sailing community
is the Clipper Bar, a bar-restaurant located near the marina. Often frequented by the yacht crews,
the bar is a perfect place to let loose and relax with a pint, especially if one doesn’t want to
worry about dressing to impress. The bartenders are wild with energy and the music consists of
the usual club tunes and all sorts of timeless classic genres. The bartenders will even turn the
music up extra loud and dance, all while mixing cocktails and taking orders. The crowd tends to be fairly
young and while the Clipper Bar may not be sleek or sexy, it is great fun for anyone looking for some
night life and a casual escape from the widespread glitz of the Porto Cervo area.
Now for those who are looking for elegance and class, the nightly Maxi Yacht Rolex Cup evening social events
provide it in spades: from cocktails to hour-long dinners, every evening is filled with activities at Porto
Cervo’s most exclusive and luxurious locales. The crowds are always far from light, no matter the
weather.
The highlight of the week is the Rolex gala dinner at Cala Di Volpe. Invited guests are led down a
candle-lit path to the pool area where tables and the grand
buffet are set up under the awnings. The sumptuous multi-course meal seems endless, complete
with chefs who prepare special dishes to order and waiters who are ready to pull out any chair and
fill up any glass. The decorations and the entertainment complete what one could call a perfect
dinner evening. 2005 saw Youssou N’dour, the world-renowned Senegalese musician and his band, to
the stage for the climax of the evening’s festivities.
The week of festivities revolving around the annual Maxi Yacht Rolex Cup is brought to a close with
a grand dinner at the Yacht Club Costa Smeralda. Tables are set up around the pool and there is a
grand buffet and oftentimes live music to perfectly set the tone. Invitees make the most of the event
by relaxing and socializing well into the evening, enjoying the true style and splendor that is typical
of Porto Cervo.
Indisputably, Porto Cervo is one of those select places on earth where one can find all ranges of
delight. From high-end luxury to hiking trails to beaches and to bars, Porto Cervo is a village
that can satisfy any thirst for beauty and any hunger
for adventure. So when searching for an island paradise, look no further than the treasure of
Sardinia, where Porto Cervo is sure to catch your eye for the moment and capture your heart for
a lifetime.
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